I couldn't believe my, well, skin, when I walked into my shop on an 85 degree day last week and it was cool, cool, cool in the shop. You actually want a little gap because you will fill that with spray foam.that comes in cans from the borg. Basically, you cut the sheets down to 1" narrower than the space between the rafters. I simply attached the insulation with screws and washers. The insulation is very ridgid, so I doubt you would have to worry about sagging. So, what I would propose is putting blocks on the inside of each rafter and screw the insulation to those. I screwed 2x4 blocks to those, and then the insulation to the blocks, leaving a 1 1/2" gap for the air to flow. I have 2x4's running the length of my shop, on top of the rafters. Now, with a ridge vent and soffit vents, you just have to make sure that there is enough room between the insulation and the roof for the air to move up. I have a metal roof and believe me, when it would get 80 out, it was 90+ at head height.I have 10' ceilings with 15' at the crest. As opposed to the pink stuff which air can actually travel through. R-value of 19, I think, but the actual r-value is supposed to be much higher because of the foil AND because you actually get a seal. I found a guy on CL in PA that sells "seconds" from DOW for a GREAT price. Now, at HD, they sell the 2" thick stuff for about $27 a sheet. Next, the insulation that I just installed in my shop worked out GREAT! It is 4x8 sheets of foam insulation that is backed on both sides with foil. This will allow air to flow up from the eaves up the roof (between the insulation that I'm about to propose) and out the ridge vent (like someone else mentioned). Oh, boy, explaining this one is going to be difficult.įirst of all, can you remove the insulation from your eaves?.the pink stuff poking out on top of the walls? If yes, I would remove that, and put in soffit vents. You can surface-mount your lights on the sloped ceilings or hang them from chains. With such a low pitch, it doesn't look like you have much storage there to begin with, but to keep some of it you can add open-ended (easier to store stuff that way) small mezzanines at one or both ends. Your shop will seem bigger and will be much airier, brighter, cooler in summer, and warmer in winter. Wire it for lights, drop cord, air cleaner, etc.Īdd R-30 batts, then rock and tape the entire cathedral ceiling and paint it white. I am sure you can add soffit vents by cutting a strip opening or drilling holes and attaching vent covers.įur out the ceiling with 1 X 2 furring strip or 2 X 4 layed across the rafters and spaced 16" on center - makes it easier to drywall. Run cheap pre-formed foam vent channels between the rafters from the soffit area up to the ridge to vent the roof deck - helps keep the ply from breaking down and the shingles will last longer in the summer heat damage. I would add a ridge vent instead of gable vents- very easy to do from the outside- peel the ridge shingles off, use a circular saw to remove the top 3/4" of ply roof deck from either side of the ridge rafter, then attach cheap metal or aluminum ridge vent with roofing nails- on that roof should take about 30 min. If the structure still needs a top-plate-height joist (collar tie) or two, investigate using swaged aircraft cables. ![]() Remove all the ceiling joist (lower collar ties). I agree with Don with some slight changes.įirst add collar ties on each set of roof rafters as high up as allowed by the size of the existing rafters and pitch of your roof (check local code).
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